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Old 01-10-2007, 09:54 PM   #1
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Default IL-86 Finished

I just finished this IL-86 1:144 scale plastic model and thought I would share it with you. The kit is from a Russian company called Zvezda. The kit fits together very well and has lots of surface details and recessed panel lines. I think the kit has excellent quality coming from a Russian company. I was pleasantly surprised. The decals went on well but have some slight yellowing. The model was can spray painted with Tamiya flat white and Model Master Light Sea Gull Gray.

I find the Russian IL-86 a pretty fascinating airplane. It first flew in 1976 and four years later with Aeroflot. Range fell way shorter than expected and only 100 IL-86's were built. Engines were under powered and the wing was rather small for a jumbo jet, only 400 sq.ft. bigger than a B-707-320. Later a redesigned IL-86 called the IL-96 appeared in 1988 to replace it. The IL-96's new engines had 35,300 -lb of thrust compared to 26,500 -lb of thrust on the IL-86. The wing area of a IL-96 was 4,214 sq. ft. compared to 3,455 sq. ft. on the IL-86. Many other improvements were made including winglets. .

Last edited by zubart; 05-04-2007 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:07 AM   #2
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That is one nice looking IL-86. Just wondering, are there any lines on the model that show signs of the built in airstairs on the Port Side? If so, then that would be a very good model kit.
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Old 01-11-2007, 04:46 AM   #3
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Very nice. Congratulations!
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Old 01-11-2007, 05:19 AM   #4
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Very well done, what a nice plane!!!

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Old 01-11-2007, 12:58 PM   #5
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WOWOWWWW

It sure does looks great!!! Very well done!

Ohhh dear i'm soooo hoping that i will see this in 1/400!!!

Damn!
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:53 PM   #6
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Thanks everyone for your comments.
Yes , the model does have the recessed lines where the built in air stairs are located. The surface detail on this model is impressive! I too would love to see an IL-86 in either 1:400 or 1:200 scale.
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Old 01-11-2007, 06:44 PM   #7
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looks so smooth!
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:46 PM   #8
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Great model and gret job putting it together. I wonder why there is no flag on the tail as is the norm with SU.
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:42 PM   #9
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You know I too thought it was odd that there weren’t any markings on the vertical stabilizer , such as a Russian flag that's seen in a lot of IL-86 photos.
So I went to Airliners.net and looked up this models tail number and it turns out this airplane had no markings on the vertical stabilizer.

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Old 01-12-2007, 05:58 PM   #10
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Great model! Where did you get it? Is that a wash that you put on the wings and fusalage?
THANKS
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Old 01-12-2007, 10:29 PM   #11
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Found it in a local hobby shop for $25 but you could probably order it from one of the online hobby stores too.

I just used a sharp #2 graphite pencil to bring out the surface detail. Then a few coats of Futura floor wax to finish.

Last edited by zubart; 01-12-2007 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 01-13-2007, 05:36 PM   #12
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Thanks, more questions thogh if thats ok Did you airbrush the bogies and the tires? Did you airbrush the silver line on the wings and engines? Also, you said that the decals had some yellowing, did you spray Testors decal bonder on them? Sorry about all the questions, I just like my models(1/144 airbus models) to look as good as possibly, and I know that your a pro at this, so who better to ask then you?! Thanks very much
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Old 01-13-2007, 05:37 PM   #13
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Oh yah, who do you fly for??
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Old 01-13-2007, 07:53 PM   #14
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No problem. I'm no pro either. I just got back into building model's about a year ago by accident.

I don't own an airbrush but use paint from the spray cans right now. Seems to do a good job most of the time.

The bogies and tires where hand painted.

The wings and engines silver edge's where painted from a Tamiya silver leaf spray can.

No, I did not put any decal bonder on the decals. The decals were very strong with no tearing.

I've been flying for Aloha Airlines for 20 years....
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Old 01-13-2007, 08:34 PM   #15
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Very cool Zubart, are you sure your not a pro...? I assume that you fly the 737.
Billy
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Old 01-13-2007, 10:39 PM   #16
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well done zubart A+!
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Old 01-13-2007, 10:56 PM   #17
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Excellent build quality and great pics.
thanks for showing.
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:02 AM   #18
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Another question. When and how did you put the floor wax on the model??
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:08 AM   #19
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sorry, its just that i keep thinking of stuff to ask, like; You sharpened a pencil and just drew inside of the imprinted lines on the model? Did you ever have to fill any gaps with putty? If so, did you just paint over it? I think that im going insane over this
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:16 AM   #20
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Really nice job, looks great. I noticed, though, that the decals have yellowed slightly, which happens a lot on models that have lived in the box too long. A solution for this the next time you run into this problem would be to buy transparent decal printer sheet, scan the old decals, photoshop the yellow out and transfer to the new sheet. It takes a little time, but the results are well worth it.
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill-ay View Post
sorry, its just that i keep thinking of stuff to ask, like; You sharpened a pencil and just drew inside of the imprinted lines on the model? Did you ever have to fill any gaps with putty? If so, did you just paint over it? I think that im going insane over this
Billy
Billy, you can accomplish the same thing with a dilute ink or paint wash. Do some experimenting on a junker model, make a weak dilute of ink or paint, and just paint it across the model. Take a towel or rag with some thinner or water (depends if you use water or thinner-based paint or ink) and rub off the excess carefully. My suggestion is to use an enamel for the base and main coats, and water-based for detailing. You can seal the detailing with a light clear-coat, and after you decal the model, use Future floor wax applied in a thin coat with a brush (or you can spray it on with a household sprayer) to seal the decals. When you go to using putty for filler, be careful about raised details, you don't want to sand those off. Recessed details can be re-scribed using a scribing tool, or even a very sharp scratch-awl. I stress, though, practice all this on a junker, because you're going to make mistakes the first few times you try these tips (I sure did!).
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:01 AM   #22
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Very,Very nice build!!

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Brad
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:46 AM   #23
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Thanks Gospodin! I have known about the ink wash for time now, but I guess ill have to try it on a nice junkers, what scale do you suggest?? Thank you
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:47 AM   #24
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BTW ill try to post some pics of my finished and painted models sometime today.
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill-ay View Post
Another question. When and how did you put the floor wax on the model??
When I build plastic models I air brush on the Futura at the end after all painting and decals are completed. It's similar to putting a finishing coat of wax on your car.
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:21 PM   #26
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zubart, nice job on the IL-86. I've built other Zvezda models before (1/72 Mig 1.44 and Mi-24E) and they are great quality kits. My family ships these kits to me from Russia. I'm adding the IL-86 to my future projects list. Thanks for the pictures.
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Old 01-14-2007, 01:04 PM   #27
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Thanks everyone for the great tip's and comments.
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Old 01-16-2007, 07:09 PM   #28
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Zubart another question, You said that you used the Testors Gull grey, so i bought some in the can and sprayed it on a wing of a model, and it came out all glotchy and bubblie, I did shake it well. I sprayed it our side in the 25 degree weather, but the bottle was room tempature, but I also know that enamels some time are hard to work with. Any hints?? PS. I ordered that Avezda il-86, cant wait!!
Thank you
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:25 PM   #29
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Bill, you have to be carefull using spray paint on your models. Wash them in warm soapy water first and let it air-dry to get rid of the releasing agent on the plastic (it's a slightly oily substance to get the plastic out of the mould easily, and paint doesn't like it much). Never spray your models in temps below 70°, make sure the model is room temperature, and test-spray on a piece of wood or the inside of the model box to clear out the dip-tube in the spray can. When you finish, wipe off the nozzle of the can and gently use a pin to clear the hole, keep paint from drying on the nozzle (turn the can upside down and spray till just air comes out). Use thin, even strokes to keep the paint from running or dimpling, and try to either use a home-made paint booth or a day without wind to spray so you don't get trash in your paint. Winter is a tough time to do spray-painting, and I definately don't recommend it in the house (your parents will not appreciate it, and it'll give you a terrific headache...I know, 'cause I used to do it!). I wish I had the quality of models they have now back when I was a kid in the late 60s-early 70s. I had a HUGE collection hanging from my ceiling, until my older brother began lobbing his dirty socks at them. Then my mother gave them away after I joined the military, so all I have are fond memorys. Hope my painting suggestions help.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:46 PM   #30
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Bill, Gospodin sum's it up well. Anyway, I like to always test spray my can first. Just give it a couple of sprays onto an old box or something. Most of the time the can works fine. Spraying in 25 degree temperatures just won't work. You might have to wait until it warms up to spray outside. Don't spray in the house unless you clear it with your parents and make sure there's plenty of room ventilation. Spray paint fumes can be dangerous. The spray will go everywhere so it's best to spray outside. Be sure to follow the directions on the can.

Good luck on your IL-86!
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:50 PM   #31
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Thanks alot guys, all these tips are going to improve my skills a lot on building models. Ok Zubart, I will do those things. Im working on a United OC 727-200 from minicraft, so I will try all these things on it(hope it works though ).
Billy
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:17 PM   #32
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I like the advice you guys are giving too. I still have a Lufthansa A300-B2 that I need to make and an TNT BAe 146.
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:24 PM   #33
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I like the advice you guys are giving too. I still have a Lufthansa A300-B2 that I need to make and an TNT BAe 146.
Is the Lufthansa A300-B2 an airfix model??
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:26 PM   #34
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This is a question for gospodin. Hey, you know that squardarn place in texas, do you know if you can like walk in and look around(it didnt look like it on the website)? Thanks
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:29 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Is the Lufthansa A300-B2 an airfix model??
Yeah, it was a gift from my grandma when she came from Poland about two years ago to stay with us for a few months. I also have a PanAm B722 that I think I'll have to redo. Didn't come out too great.
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:32 PM   #36
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LOl well youll get it sooner then later.
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:41 PM   #37
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Hey Zubart, I think you said this, but, did you get the shineyness of the model by putting on the floor wax? Or did you put a gloss coat on it?? I put some floor wax on my B-cal A310, and it didnt look so shiney afterwards.
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:42 PM   #38
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I used three coats of Future because its cheap and does the job for me.

Tamiya's gloss coat works really well and will make the model shinier but is more expensive. Sometimes I will use Tamiya’s a gloss coat when I want a super shine.
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Old 01-19-2007, 05:36 PM   #39
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Thanks Zubart
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Old 03-15-2007, 02:27 PM   #40
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Heres a pic of the real thing, it dosent have any thing on the tail because it is an ex-AJT IL-86

PS. Zubarts looks much cleaner
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Old 03-16-2007, 01:51 PM   #41
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Here's the real airplane. RA-86065.

Airliners.net Photos: Aeroflot - Russian Airlines Ilyushin Il-86
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:34 PM   #42
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The only thing i can do is wait till i have this one in 1/400! When that moment is there i give a party with a lot of Vodka! Hiiiiihaaaaaaa
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:34 PM   #43
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Thanks for the pictures, you do some very nice work. I have this model half finished, its painted but I didn't know what to do about the tail so I stopped work. Now I see the tail is grey, I painted it white, so a little re-paint will be required.I certainly got some good references from this thread.

One tip that works good for me when using spray cans, I spray outdoors when its warm and in the garage when its cold, the parts are attached to wire hangars and I hang them up to dry in a window that has direct sunlight. The paint dries fast and lays down nice and if your using gloss, comes out with a real nice shine. Same principle as painting a car using heat lamps.
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:08 AM   #44
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Thanks for the painting tips STEVEJ.
I usually let glossy paint dry for a couple of days before I touch the part again, especially Testors or Model Master spray paints. I'll try putting the part in the sunlight next time to dry faster!
Tamiya gloss paint is my favorite though, it drys very fast and can be touched within a hour.
Post some pictures when you finish!!
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:03 PM   #45
 
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Default Re: IL-86 Finished

Zubart, is there any way I can see pics of this model? No images show up in this thread so if you have another place where I can see them it would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:17 PM   #46
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Default Re: IL-86 Finished

Quote:
Originally Posted by crasser
Zubart, is there any way I can see pics of this model? No images show up in this thread so if you have another place where I can see them it would be greatly appreciated.
Well, the pics were probably deleted, since this thread is over a year old. You should PM him.
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Old 08-01-2008, 02:21 PM   #47
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Default Re: IL-86 Finished

I'll get some pictures back on soon.
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Old 08-01-2008, 03:27 PM   #48
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Default Re: IL-86 Finished

Here's pictures of the IL-86...........
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Old 08-01-2008, 04:25 PM   #49
 
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Default Re: IL-86 Finished

Wow! its beautiful.
I'll be using this as an inspiration when building my Revell il-86.
Your windshield came out really well considering that the zvezda kit doesn't come with a decal for it.



Thanks!
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