SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400 - DA.C
 

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Old 10-13-2004, 04:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400

Donor was a SMA DC-9-32 Continental (red)

Fuselage: shortened
Flaps: resin
Slats: white metal
Decals: Drawn using CorelDraw9, printed on ALPS MD-1000

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Old 10-13-2004, 05:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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WOW!!! It's amazing!

Lollo
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Old 10-14-2004, 10:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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WOW man AND its my favorite livery. its a jewel
if that plane has been in 1:500, I have to give you an offer you can´t refuse

very good job.

I hope you "custumguys" some day will give a in deep report, on how to do
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Old 10-14-2004, 05:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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stunning work there
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Old 10-14-2004, 07:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thats the best one I've ever seen! Wow!
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Old 10-17-2004, 05:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hallo Alex,

wirklich erstklassige Arbeit!! Congratulation !

Wir sind mittlerweile mit unserem Projekt auch ein wenig weiter, doch einige Fragen bleiben noch. Vielleicht bist Du so nett und hilfst uns weiter.

Soweit ich weiß, benutzt Du auch die Folien von ACT. Versiegelst Du die Prints auch mit Mr. Metal Primer? Und grundierst Du die Modelle vor dem Aufbringen der Decals mit diesem Primer? Angeblich soll dadurch die Kante der Decals unsichtbar werden. Ich habe allerdings keine Unterschiede feststellen können.

Welchen Lack benutzt Du zum abschliessenden Versiegeln der Modelle?

Schöne Grüße aus Bochum,
Bert
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Old 10-18-2004, 05:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Some additional pictures

After cutting the fuselage.
The SMA DC-9-32 fuselage had to be shortened by 11,4mm/0,448" - that are ~4,55m/14,9ft according to scale.


After re-joining, sanding and cleaning...




@CB and others interested:

Decals. I don't use Mr. Metal Primer.
As you can see in the last picture, no decal outlines are vissible.
I treat the decal sheet with steel whool (000) before printing (not neccessary, but my printer gives more crisp results on a "sanded" surface - LASER-sheets ONLY!!), after printing the sheet is sealed with a very very thin layer of Liquid Decal.
Prior to decal application, the model gets a thin layer of Tamiya clear (not neccessary if the surface is plain enough - that's just done to prevent "decal-silvering").
After applying the decals - MicroSol is recommended - and giving them some time to dry, another thin layer of Tamiya clear is sprayed on.
That's it.

Edit: The blue turns out too bright in these pictures, it's darker when you look at the model in person.

@Aeronautic: Is this DC-7C in your avatar the old "Reidar Viking"? That would be a fine model in 1/400 scale.

Last edited by Phantom; 10-18-2004 at 05:24 AM.
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom

@Aeronautic: Is this DC-7C in your avatar the old "Reidar Viking"? That would be a fine model in 1/400 scale.
its "Rolf Viking" Yes it would be a fine model in 1:400 as well in 1:500
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Old 10-18-2004, 03:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Got lost in the whole think but still love it. Like people like you who make nice models to show off.
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Old 10-18-2004, 04:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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@Phantom

Alex, thanks alot for the information.
It´s similar the way we used to do. When we use the laser sheets no decal outlines are visible, too. But by the way using the other sheets for bubble jet printers tiny outlines remain visible. This depends on the different thickness of the sheets.

But what do you mean with "decal-silvering"? Can you please explain?

Is the Tamiya clear coat a water based acrylic paint? Is it guarantered by the producer that the paint won´t yellow? We are looking for a clear coat that is absorbing UV light and will definately not yellow.

Bert
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Old 10-18-2004, 05:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB Customs
@Phantom

Alex, thanks alot for the information.
It´s similar the way we used to do. When we use the laser sheets no decal outlines are visible, too. But by the way using the other sheets for bubble jet printers tiny outlines remain visible. This depends on the different thickness of the sheets.

But what do you mean with "decal-silvering"? Can you please explain?

Is the Tamiya clear coat a water based acrylic paint? Is it guarantered by the producer that the paint won´t yellow? We are looking for a clear coat that is absorbing UV light and will definately not yellow.

Bert
Silvering...
What I'm talking about is the very disturbing effect that you can see if you apply decals on a flat paint (you should never ever do so). Some air will remain between the "rough" surface and the decal. As the decal doesn't have 100% contact to the paint below, this air will give the decals a silver shine and makes the outlines vissible. You can prevent this when your surface is as glossy as ever possible. Silvering -> See attachment (I hope the builder of this model doesn't mind)

Tamiya clear out of the spraycan is different to the Tamiya that is sold in glasses. While the paint in glasses should be water/alcohol based, spaycans have to rely on additives (solvents) - this may attack uncoated decals or other acrylics, so be careful. Tamiya jellowing? Never heared about a problem but can't garantee anything.
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Old 10-20-2004, 04:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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@phantom

Thanks Alex!

Yesterday I went to out local toy shop and bought Tamiya clear in a spraycan, called TS-13. Today I tried it, but in spite of beeing very careful it attacked other acrylics I painted and damaged their surface. For sealing decals it seems to be very useful. Next I´ll try Tamiya clear out of glasses.

Regards,
Bert
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Last edited by CB Customs; 10-20-2004 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 10-21-2004, 07:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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What could I say? Your custom plane is AMAZING!!! The best I've ever seen!
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Old 10-21-2004, 08:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
What could I say? Your custom plane is AMAZING!!! The best I've ever seen!

I agree 100%!!!

Fantastic!!!
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Old 11-24-2020, 03:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400

Digging out a really old thread. It's been 16 years now that I finished this model. Just unpacked its after moving home once again, so I used the chance to snap a new photo.

The old pics in this thread seem to have vanished so I'll re-post them.


1. The SMA DC-9-30 donor after cutting it up:



2. The 9-20 model after joining:



3. First test fit of the (alpha-) decal-artwork:




SAS DC-9-21 LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" by AlexK3800, auf Flickr
Attached Images
File Type: png LNRLMcut042004.png (519.8 KB, 105 views)
File Type: png LNRLMjoin042004.png (284.8 KB, 105 views)
File Type: png LNRLMtestfit052004.png (231.7 KB, 98 views)
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Old 11-25-2020, 12:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400

How did you cut it? What tool was used? Is this your first attempt at this?
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Old 11-25-2020, 03:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400

Quote:
Originally Posted by shandaken View Post
How did you cut it? What tool was used? Is this your first attempt at this?

It's been 16 years now, but IIRC I used my selfmade 300mm handsaw for the cuts. The parts where then filed and finally sanded to the proper dimensions and angles.
I did quite a few other models prior to this, but IIRC this was the first where I simply cut the original metal fuselage as it was quicker and easier. Before this I think I always used to copy the parts first (silicone-resin) and then worked on with the copies - leaving the original intact while allowing for multiple copies, but that was time consuming.
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Old 11-26-2020, 08:25 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400

Great job, difficult to believe it is a 1/400 model.

Jean Pierre.
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Old 12-10-2020, 05:59 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400

This is one superb model.
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Old 12-11-2020, 04:47 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Re: SAS DC-9-21; LN-RLM "Reidar Viking" 1/400

Very nice result!
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