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Old 07-22-2021, 04:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Just thought I'd share the current progress of my first (kinda) custom, Heavylift 727-200 RP-C8019.
Nearly finished one side, just got to even up the paint a bit (on the blue) any tips on this?
Looks a lot better in person, without the camera's flash.
Please share your thoughts.
Cheers!
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My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1707.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1710.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1711.jpg  
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Old 07-22-2021, 10:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Looks nice! gonna have to touch up on the blue. Blue seems a little dark, but may just be the model.

Looks good for afirst custom
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Old 07-23-2021, 04:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Welcome to the DIY model world.

Best to use masking tape to get a clear paint line divide. It's very difficult to get a smooth finish when hand painting. Don't use too much paint
and use a wide brush. A couple of thin coats is better then one think one

Have found spray cans to be better, especially when needing to paint larger areas.

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Old 07-23-2021, 05:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Quote:
Originally Posted by Argosy View Post
Welcome to the DIY model world.

Best to use masking tape to get a clear paint line divide. It's very difficult to get a smooth finish when hand painting. Don't use too much paint
and use a wide brush. A couple of thin coats is better then one think one

Have found spray cans to be better, especially when needing to paint larger areas.

Argosy
Thanks for your advice!
I was considering using masking tape for painting on the straight lines for the 'H' shape, but I would've been too hard to make them the correct dimensions of the shape accurate.
Also, the lacquer paint I'm using seems to be fragile ever drying, and the tape may damage it.
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Old 07-23-2021, 06:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

I would suggest finding a photo of the actual aircraft and print it off on decal paper using a laser colour printer, sized to fit. Then cut out the tail logo and titles and you will have the actual markings from the real aircraft.
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Old 07-23-2021, 09:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

I always use enamel paint when hand painting my models. If paint fully dry when using masking tape it should be easily removed without picking up paint.

The decal approach for a tail design is a good suggestion but require a different set of skills plus computer, printer & decal paper.

Argosy
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Old 07-23-2021, 04:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

As usually, with just taking a pic of the real thing, scaling and printing it you'd miss the detail's (decals) 3D-dimensions - and you'd probably find out that the real deal had different proportions than the model.
Moreover, this tail - while looking simple - is a complex task to get good looking. Decals for blue/red wont look any good as the blue wraps around #2 intake while the red covers the stab fairing. If at all, you'd need opaque decals (neither inkjet nor laser printed!) and some MicroSet/Sol - still, airbrush is the way to go.
But it of course depends on your expectations.


So this would be my "as good as it gets" workflow for such task (if I wouldn't have a printer for opaque colors incl. white available):

- remove the v.tail carefully
- strip it down to the bare metal - only if its metal on that mould of course!! - if not, don't touch it with acetone!
[
Artwork:
- apply a clear masking foil over one side of the tail
- take a fine writing pen and carefully draw the desired outlines of the H onto that foil
- remove foil and apply it to a sheet of paper, scan it in
- import into your prefered vector app - like Illustrator, the free InkScape perfectly does the deal too
- draw the vectors for the desired artwork going by the scan, print and apply for test fit, adjust if necessary
]
- prime with a good primer (neutral grey)
- airbrush red all over
- mask off the areas that will remain red (you may ignore the small red triangle below the H, see "If not..." down below) - use your artwork to print out your stencil to a sheet of quality masking paper, carefully cut out and apply so that it saves you from later work top mid of the H
- airbrush blue
- print out your inverted stencils/artwork (the H) to the back of a thin laser (!) decal sheet
Granted your printer is suitable you can also try to make a very fine print onto your white paint as this side around increases cut quality
- airbrush the decal sheet (front of your print) with several fine layers of white for opacity
- carefully (take the sharpest scalpel or best scissors!!!) cut out your "H" and apply your decal in the desired position

If you worked with the greatest care you can now do your final detailing (stab leading edge, intake, intake lips, stab actuators...)
If not you may want to airbrush some red on your decal sheet, cut out your desired red triangles etc. and apply them to clean up the looks.
Finally apply some clear coat


I know, this certainly is a massive approach, but a rewarding one that gives you solid, opaque colors and clean lines that should outperform the looks of tampo printing and those of home-printed decals anyways.
It might however not be really suitable if you're just doing your first steps in decaling/artwork/airbrushing.
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Last edited by Phantom II; 07-23-2021 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 07-23-2021, 04:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Quote:
Originally Posted by 747438 View Post
..
Nearly finished one side, just got to even up the paint a bit (on the blue) any tips on this?
...

If you're hand painting the model, I'd suggest to actually mask off the "H". Always try to remove the stabs from the fuselage for easier handling.

Try to get some masking paper (I used Tamiya's, not sure if it's still available) and draw the "H" onto it - take the dimensions from your model. Cut out with good scissors or better a scalpel and apply it to the tail.
You can then brush red/blue. Finally remove the mask.
I see you're using Tamiya. I remember having troubles with those paints when hand brushing as they either weren't opaque or went on rather thick which might result in fairly noticeable edges along the lines of your mask.
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Old 07-24-2021, 03:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom II View Post
As usually, with just taking a pic of the real thing, scaling and printing it you'd miss the detail's (decals) 3D-dimensions - and you'd probably find out that the real deal had different proportions than the model.
Moreover, this tail - while looking simple - is a complex task to get good looking. Decals for blue/red wont look any good as the blue wraps around #2 intake while the red covers the stab fairing. If at all, you'd need opaque decals (neither inkjet nor laser printed!) and some MicroSet/Sol - still, airbrush is the way to go.
But it of course depends on your expectations.


So this would be my "as good as it gets" workflow for such task (if I wouldn't have a printer for opaque colors incl. white available):

- remove the v.tail carefully
- strip it down to the bare metal - only if its metal on that mould of course!! - if not, don't touch it with acetone!
[
Artwork:
- apply a clear masking foil over one side of the tail
- take a fine writing pen and carefully draw the desired outlines of the H onto that foil
- remove foil and apply it to a sheet of paper, scan it in
- import into your prefered vector app - like Illustrator, the free InkScape perfectly does the deal too
- draw the vectors for the desired artwork going by the scan, print and apply for test fit, adjust if necessary
]
- prime with a good primer (neutral grey)
- airbrush red all over
- mask off the areas that will remain red (you may ignore the small red triangle below the H, see "If not..." down below) - use your artwork to print out your stencil to a sheet of quality masking paper, carefully cut out and apply so that it saves you from later work top mid of the H
- airbrush blue
- print out your inverted stencils/artwork (the H) to the back of a thin laser (!) decal sheet
Granted your printer is suitable you can also try to make a very fine print onto your white paint as this side around increases cut quality
- airbrush the decal sheet (front of your print) with several fine layers of white for opacity
- carefully (take the sharpest scalpel or best scissors!!!) cut out your "H" and apply your decal in the desired position

If you worked with the greatest care you can now do your final detailing (stab leading edge, intake, intake lips, stab actuators...)
If not you may want to airbrush some red on your decal sheet, cut out your desired red triangles etc. and apply them to clean up the looks.
Finally apply some clear coat


I know, this certainly is a massive approach, but a rewarding one that gives you solid, opaque colors and clean lines that should outperform the looks of tampo printing and those of home-printed decals anyways.
It might however not be really suitable if you're just doing your first steps in decaling/artwork/airbrushing.
Excellent advise here Alex but jeez that really sounds very involved!! I'd be lost on number two if following all that. Lotsa time required too! Hope it helps Brad though!
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Old 07-24-2021, 02:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom II View Post
As usually, with just taking a pic of the real thing, scaling and printing it you'd miss the detail's (decals) 3D-dimensions - and you'd probably find out that the real deal had different proportions than the model.
Moreover, this tail - while looking simple - is a complex task to get good looking. Decals for blue/red wont look any good as the blue wraps around #2 intake while the red covers the stab fairing. If at all, you'd need opaque decals (neither inkjet nor laser printed!) and some MicroSet/Sol - still, airbrush is the way to go.
But it of course depends on your expectations.


So this would be my "as good as it gets" workflow for such task (if I wouldn't have a printer for opaque colors incl. white available):

- remove the v.tail carefully
- strip it down to the bare metal - only if its metal on that mould of course!! - if not, don't touch it with acetone!
[
Artwork:
- apply a clear masking foil over one side of the tail
- take a fine writing pen and carefully draw the desired outlines of the H onto that foil
- remove foil and apply it to a sheet of paper, scan it in
- import into your prefered vector app - like Illustrator, the free InkScape perfectly does the deal too
- draw the vectors for the desired artwork going by the scan, print and apply for test fit, adjust if necessary
]
- prime with a good primer (neutral grey)
- airbrush red all over
- mask off the areas that will remain red (you may ignore the small red triangle below the H, see "If not..." down below) - use your artwork to print out your stencil to a sheet of quality masking paper, carefully cut out and apply so that it saves you from later work top mid of the H
- airbrush blue
- print out your inverted stencils/artwork (the H) to the back of a thin laser (!) decal sheet
Granted your printer is suitable you can also try to make a very fine print onto your white paint as this side around increases cut quality
- airbrush the decal sheet (front of your print) with several fine layers of white for opacity
- carefully (take the sharpest scalpel or best scissors!!!) cut out your "H" and apply your decal in the desired position

If you worked with the greatest care you can now do your final detailing (stab leading edge, intake, intake lips, stab actuators...)
If not you may want to airbrush some red on your decal sheet, cut out your desired red triangles etc. and apply them to clean up the looks.
Finally apply some clear coat


I know, this certainly is a massive approach, but a rewarding one that gives you solid, opaque colors and clean lines that should outperform the looks of tampo printing and those of home-printed decals anyways.
It might however not be really suitable if you're just doing your first steps in decaling/artwork/airbrushing.
Thankyou for your in depth suggestions Alex!!
The main issue for me is those very annoying gaps in the middle of the 'H', they are very much a pain to cut out (as it's impossible with scissors) I have tried with a hobby knife, but it wasn't fine enough and there was a tiny bit of paper that wouldn't budge on the upper right side corner, which is why the paint curves upwards.
I will share the steps I made.
1. To get somewhat accurate dimensions of the 'H' shape, I loaded a side on picture onto my tablet, keeping the photo resolution exactly the same at all times, I measured the distance of the photo from the engine intake to the back-end of the tail, I wrote down this length, and then measured the same part on the model, I came up with a ratio, of how many cm in the picture would be on the model, and proceeded to measure the different parts on the 'H'.
2. I converted all the measurement to that on the model.
3. Drew up a design.
4. Came up with a shape in MSword with close to the exact measurements.
5.I had used a very dark grey primer, (which was the only one I could find close to my home which was suitable for use with lacquers). I decided to paint the whole tail surface white as to stop the colours from appearing far too dark. My plan was to mask off the 'H' and paint the blue and red around it.
6. Printed out this piece of paper and tried to cut out the H accurately (quite a difficult task as I outlined before), I thought of using masking tape, but I figured that it would be just too hard to cut it out accurately at the correct dimensions.
7. I sticky-taped the H on (with tape to one side so I could paint the other side) to attempt a straight line, it actually turned out pretty good, but I kind-of ruined it when the paint around the edges was too light when I took it off, so I tried to even it up.

I had also considered using a airbrush, but protecting the rest of the model from paint spray seemed like too much of an issue, also the cost ect.
Attached Thumbnails
My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-219805744_216427120386404_5237435997789147635_n.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-219440919_1428821424161753_8063245328822182941_n.jpg  
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Old 07-24-2021, 03:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

I also forgot to mention that Sydney is in complete lockdown again atm and our postage system is a big mess, so I have no access to hobby shops ect, also out of work due to said lockdown and couldn't really fork out the investment right now. But I did want to get started on the project while I have nothing to do and to keep me sane, as it was sitting around for 4 or so weeks after I striped the logos ect with no real progress.
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Good luck on your first custom! Good luck with the lockdown, too...

make sure to share pics of the final model! Would love to see your first custom
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Old 07-31-2021, 01:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Here is the left side so far:
Attached Thumbnails
My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1786.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1787.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1789.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1790.jpg  
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Old 08-17-2021, 01:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Just gave the tail a coat of varnish, before that I also made slight adjustments to the 'H'.
It's nearly finished, all I need to do now is make some tweaks with acetone and get some decal paper and stick on the rego! Any advice on how you all apply a small decal? Tweezers?
Attached Thumbnails
My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1927.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1933.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1930.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1932.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1934.jpg  

My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1935.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1936.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1938.jpg   My first custom progress: Heavylift 727-dsc_1939.jpg  
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Old 08-17-2021, 03:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Quote:
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Any advice on how you all apply a small decal? Tweezers?
Looks great buddy For small decals I use a welding helmet with a 3.0 magnifying lens in it, sounds random, but the magnification is just perfect for small decals. But yes tweezers, just make sure you don't squeeze them too tight onto the decal, as you may tear it. I also use modelers cotton buds. The tips are a lot more harder and don't leave fibers.
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Old 08-17-2021, 10:37 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: My first custom progress: Heavylift 727

Quote:
Originally Posted by 747438 View Post
Just gave the tail a coat of varnish, before that I also made slight adjustments to the 'H'.
It's nearly finished, all I need to do now is make some tweaks with acetone and get some decal paper and stick on the rego! Any advice on how you all apply a small decal? Tweezers?
Looks awesome! To apply a small decal, I would use tweezers and a q-tip (or cotton bud, cotton wobbler, or whatever you want to call it lol) ... find the place you want to put the deacal on, remove it with the tweeers from the backing to the general place you want it. Then, use the q-tip and move it into the posistion you want it
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