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Old 06-13-2010, 04:09 AM   #1
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Default Yellowing Models

I've heard that models "yellow". Which models yellow and why? How can you prevent this from happening? Luckily, mine are all still white!
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:12 AM   #2
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

Search the forums and you'll get plenty of helpful information.
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:56 PM   #3
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

Also be sure to read up on these:
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

Vintage Computing and Gaming | Archive Why Super Nintendos Lose Their Color: Plastic Discoloration in Classic Machines

Transformers Forum: yellowing treatment
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Old 06-13-2010, 03:20 PM   #4
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Default Re: Yellowing Models


Thanks for those links. Both were EXTREMELY helpfull. Luckily my models aren't anywhere near sunlight, fluorescents, smoke, or heat. I may consider puting on a coat of that clear uv protection stuff on them. I dunno...Now I see why metal diecast is preferred, but before buying the models I have, I did research and most of them don't come in metal form. Oh well. I'll just have to hope it doesn't happen.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:55 AM   #5
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

I have purchased both metal and plastic, and quite frankly, the yellowing of plastic is not such a big problem as compared to some of the defects that have been popping up in diecast (zinc rot, paint chipping, misaligned parts).

While I'm not totally sold on the idea of paying $300 for a plastic Herpa premium, I am sold on paying $30-50 for a non premium Hogan/Herpa. Both can yellow, but with little exposure for the sun, they can stay white for at least 10 years. Even if the thing yellows, it is relatively easy to do a custom on plastic.

Metal planes, regardless of size, have had a number of defects that are harder to correct and cover up. The only 1/200 diecast I have in my collection of 10 planes without a noticeable defect is my Aviation200 Korean Air 743. People think metal is eternal, but if it isn't cast, assembled or painted worth a sh#t, the model will fall apart within 5 years.

I think you get a better product for the money with a Hogan than a GJ200 or an Inflight200. So don't feel bad about not having gone to metal.
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:09 AM   #6
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

Interesting question here, how does yellowing effect custom models, i know its based on what paints you use, but does anyone have any experience with standard revell or humbrol white enamels yellowing? Also with using finishing products, does it help/hinder etc..? I know decals can occasionally yellow, its based on the quality of decals i assume.
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:16 AM   #7
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

To get a better idea, it would be better to have forum members actually say if they have plastic models that have yellowed, and metal models suffering from zinc rot (200 scale models)
For my part I have mostly metal and none is suffering from zinc rot.
The plastic models I have are recent and so far spotless.
I'm worried about Hogan & Risesoon Air France models though...
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:53 AM   #8
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

Quote:
Originally Posted by journeyofman2000 View Post
I've heard that models "yellow". Which models yellow and why? How can you prevent this from happening? Luckily, mine are all still white!
Well... Only Lufthansa Modell Edition yellows easily...
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:09 PM   #9
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTF200 View Post
I'm worried about Hogan & Risesoon Air France models though...
at least hogan AF is simply painted plasic, that can yellow like painted metal I guess :-D

so its the nearly the same risk, beside one problem - hogan/herpa sometimes use colores plastics instead of painted. that stuff will yellow - mabye?
(iran air horizontal stabilizer, delta horizontal stabilizer and so on ...)

for example, herpa premium was complete colored plastic and not painted!
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Old 06-16-2010, 01:15 AM   #10
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

Yellowing can effectively be a big problem.

I have an A 300-600 produced by Herpa Primium, I bought it about 12 years ago.
This plane is wearing the EMIRATES colours and now, it is "ivory" except the fuselage which is still perfectly white, certainly because it has been painted.
In fact, under the paint coat, I can see a cheat line along the windows.
In my opinion, this fuselage is a former LUFTHANSA model that was painted.

The AIR NEWZEALAND 744 is still perfect.

I have many Hogan models wearing the AIR FRANCE livery, they are all white, the oldest is a 747-400 acquired 8 years ago at the very beginning of its release, and so far I don't have any problem.

I also have many Wertern Models bought between 15 to 10 years ago and I can see on some of them, some sort of distortion, what is called "metal fatigue" : dihedral wing modification, exagerated bending of the wings ...

With care, it can be corrected but be careful.

I had to correct an outer wing of my AN 22, now it is fine, I did the same with the horizontal surfaces of a Bréguet Deux Ponts, a French airliner (the very first double decker) and I am very satisfied of the result.
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:16 PM   #11
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

I've got about a dozen 1/200 both diecast and plastic models sitting in my room which is usually closed with curtains. The models have been sitting there for over 2 years, and none have yellowed (fingerscrossed that they stay that way forever).

I live in Melbourne Australia where the RH humidity is approx 30-50% for most times of the year (rarely gets above 70%, except on very wet days). THe sunlight can be quite brutal in this part of the world as well. Having said that, as long as the models as kept well, they'll last for a very long time.

i have been considering buying display cabinets and applying a layer of tint, that's something that is yet to prove that yellowing can be stopped.
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:48 PM   #12
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Default Re: Yellowing Models

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviationjumper! View Post
Well... Only Lufthansa Modell Edition yellows easily...
Not true...
I've recently sold a few LME models that were pure white...
Some of these were released in 1989 (A300) and other in 1993...not a hint of yellowing...
I still have a LME B744 in LH markings that is pure white...
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